Rolling through the big empty

Waltraud Krause (left) and Ingrid Adler have been touring the United States on their vacations for 10 years in an attempt to get to all of the states. They're lacking only Alaska and West Virginia.

No big deal you say? Lots of people get to all of the states.

Ingrid lives near Stutgart and Waltraud lives near Frankfurt in Germany.

I met the two of them at a gas station in Medora, North Dakota. The station was closed, but the pumps operate around the clock. Unlike most pay at the pump facilities this one has a central pay station that requires you to enter your credit card, enter the number of the pump you want to use, and then go pump your gas. I was able to help because I had run into a similar machine in California and had struggled to figure it out.

Ingrid and Waltraud asked for a tip on where to go from North Dakota. They were interested in seeing western Nebraska, so I suggested they go to Alliance to see Carhenge. Carhenge is a replica of Stonehenge made from automobiles. Anne and I went to Carhenge more than 10 years ago while touring the country in our old VW bus. If you are ever in western Nebraska, go see Carhenge.

The fellow standing by his BMW R1150 GS Adventure (same bike as mine) is Paul Weiss, a retired software engineer from Portland. Paul was on an eight day ride around the west. When I told him my timetable he opined that I was nuts. He said it would be a great trip if I took eight months to do it. Oh well. Paul seems to have adjusted well to retirement. He keeps another motorcycle in Europe for use there, and he and his wife are taking a cruise to Alaska to celebrate his birthday.

I'm preparing this entry in my room in the Arrowhead Inn in New Salem, N.D. The day started in Deer Lodge, Montana with a temperature of 39 degrees and rain. Some snowflakes were mixed in, but nothing was sticking. The white landscape photo shows the mountains I had ridden through on the way east. As the road neared the summit the snow line was below the road. Fortunately nothing stuck to the road.

The dark clouds were between my position and Bismark. They were more threatening in appearance than in reality. Ultimately the clouds gave way to sunshine and blue sky. The ride would have been spectacular had it not been for a strong wind from the south. With a wind you have to lean the motorcycle into the wind to keep from being blown off course. The thrill comes when you are leaned into the wind and the wind stops.

Riding through the high plains of New Mexico, Arizona, Washington and North Dakota on a motorcycle you get a real appreciation the vastness of the country. Montana bills itself as "Big Sky Country," but they don't have a sole claim to the western sky. On the plains, with neither trees nor mountains to obscure the view, the sky goes on forever.

A motorcycle adds to the experience because there is no frame for the landscape or the sky. You are part of the scene rather than a spectator. In a car you might notice that the eroded landforms in North Dakota have layers of khaki and gray rock or soil with very little red. In contrast the landscape of New Mexico and Arizona includes many more reds. All the colors are a function of the activity going on at that place in any given period of geologic history.

One of the reasons I don't like riding at night is the possibility of a close encounter with a deer or some other animal. Today, while it was still daylight, I had just such an encounter. I came upon a deer standing beside the road. As I got off the trottle to begin slowing the deer ran directly in front of me. I dodged to the right. I clipped the deer with some part of the bike, but didn't fall. I'm guessing both the deer and I survived the encounter. I immediately began looking for a motel. Bismark can wait until tomorrow.

I mentioned the Garberville Motel as being a perfect road trip hotel. The Arrowhead fits the bill too, and has the added benefit of having a restaurant and lounge (bar) next door. The room is under $50.00 for the night, and the bike is parked at the door.

I'm going to give up trying to predict a schedule because something always happens. So, here is the plan for Friday. I will leave the Interstate at Fargo to take U.S. Highway 2 across Minnesota and Wisconsin to Michigan. We'll see what happens.

One of my sons, Edward, mentioned that he liked the George, Martha and Kermit, Washington report. It got me thinking as I rode across Montana. Do you suppose there is a Joe, Montana?